You don’t need a degree to understand that plastics in our oceans are a major problem. Here’s what we’re doing — and what you can do — to start tackling the problem of plastic fragments from clothing ending up in waterways.
WHAT THE HELL ARE MICROFIBRES?
Microfibres are tiny fragments of fabric that create BIG problems. They shed from clothing when it’s washed, and are so teeny tiny that many of them aren’t caught by washing machines or wastewater treatment filters, so they end up in rivers, lakes and, eventually, the ocean. Microfibres are part of a larger problem with microplastics, or small plastic fragments from any source. New research shows that 70% of microplastics pollutants are microfibres!
WHAT'S THE HARM?
Microfibres, being plastic, absorb toxins as they pass through treatment plants and, unlike natural fibres, they do not break down. The biggest concern is that marine life is ingesting these tiny, toxin-filled fibres and that the plastics (and toxins) are making their way back into our food cycle. There’s not any research yet that shows sea life or people have been harmed by microfibres, but it’s a no-brainer — plastic pollution is not good for the planet.
HOW BIG IS THE PROBLEM?
Research from 2015 by the University of California shows that a single piece of synthetic clothing can release up to 250,000 microfibres every time it’s washed. Even with wastewater treatment plants filtering out 60–90%, this figure multiplied out means that roughly a town of 100,000 people is flushing the equivalent of 15,000 plastic shopping bags into the environment every single day.
You’ve probably seen images of huge floating plastic islands in the ocean. Research now suggests that 80% of plastic pollution is unseen — microplastics. And it’s everywhere. One study took samples from 18 beaches around the world and found microplastics in every sample.
WE’VE ALL BEEN WEARING (AND WASHING) POLYESTER FABRICS SINCE THE 60S. WHY IS THIS SUDDENLY IN THE NEWS?
Microfibres have been there all along, but until recently, scientists looking at plastic pollution in the ocean were only seeing the big stuff. It wasn’t until a 2011 study by ecologist Mark Browne that this issue began to see the light of day.
CAN'T WE JUST BAN THEM?
You may have heard about how microbeads have been banned from cosmetics. That was relatively easy. These plastic exfoliants can be easily replaced by organic compounds like sugar, sand or ground seeds. For the apparel industry, things aren’t quite so simple. The University of California study concluded that the elimination of synthetic textiles was “extremely unlikely” and said that mitigation (finding better ways) is the way to reduce microfibre pollution.
IF WE SWITCHED EVERYTHING TO NATURAL FIBRES, WOULDN'T THAT SOLVE THE PROBLEM?
Unfortunately, it’s not that simple. No fabric is without its impacts. Conventional cotton production contributes a fifth of the world’s pesticides. Wool is a fantastic fabric but uses a lot of chlorine in its production to make it soft on the skin. Viscose is natural; it’s made from tree pulp, but increasing demand for this fabric is threatening old growth forests and the last habitats of endangered species.
Polyester has a microfibre problem, but it is also more durable for many uses.
Seems we just can’t win, but there are things we can do.
WHAT IS KATHMANDU DOING ABOUT IT?
Our first step was to understand more. This led us to seek out partners who we could work with to create more sustainable fabrics. One of our new pals is Primaloft, who have helped us make our range of Bio Fleece - a revolutionary product, created from plastic waste that won’t end up in our landfills.
WHAT ABOUT ME?
Of course, the simplest solution is to wash less. For most garments, a lifecycle analysis shows that the biggest environmental impact comes not from the manufacturing or the disposal, but during the product’s use. That’s because all that washing adds up — with water use and energy use. Your washing machine might also make a difference. Initial research shows that top loaders shed seven times more fibres than front loaders. Another thing you can do is make your voice heard. Industry-wide change comes fastest when there is consumer pressure. Ask your favourite brands what steps they're taking to address this issue.